The Outer Banks in the 1700's

In this blog I have detailed life in many different centuries on the Outer Banks, beginning with a lengthy study of pre-contact Native America and then the 1500's when settlement began, the 1600's when it continued and on to the 1800's when a great deal was happening along our coast and in the various communities that had sprung up. I have not delved much into the 1700's, and since that is true, I thought I would now, finally, write about that important era.

Many things came into place in this century that set the tone for the centuries to follow. At the very beginning of the 1700's the most significant achievement was the journey and writing of a man named John Lawson who traveled inland among the many tribes still living, for the most part, as they did before the white man came. There were major influences among them coming from the traders who would bring goods in exchange for furs. This set up a dependency that Native Americans had hitherto not known as they craved cloth, iron pots, guns and other items the colonists had. John Lawson gives us a mostly accurate view of this transitional time period in his book, "A New Voyage to Carolina."

As with most things Outer Banks, events tended to revolve around the sea, ships and trading routes. Communities sprang up for different reasons. Ocracoke, having a navigable inlet, began as a "Pilot Town," or place where pilots could be hired to take a ship or boat through the treacherous shoals, up river to towns like Bath and Edenton. It was reported that there were settlers in Nags Head Woods at an early date. Other communities sprang up as fishing villages along the sounds. Some people came by way of shipwrecks, but most were dissatisfied Virginia colonists looking for a more independent life. John Lawson observed that there were still Native Americans on Hatteras when he visited there and they were intermarried with the white settlers who had come there. Modern day people have made the claim that these Indians were descendants of those who helped the Lost Colonists, and possibly even descendants of them, but there is little conclusive proof of that. As the century progressed, more and more conflict arose with Native Americans all over the colonies. In North Carolina one of the most devastating conflicts became known as the Tuscarora War. At this time the European powers were all vying for a piece of America and supported any efforts of Native Americans to cause difficulty, mostly to further their own ends. These tribes already had long established allies and enemies and so these European powers, notably, France, Spain and England, would use them as pawns against each other and against colonists of opposing countries. In my opinion, if they had all banded together, the European-American population would be the minority now and we might be speaking Algonquin or Iroquoian. That would be okay with me.

Another important change that took place was the transition from indentured servitude to downright racially motivated permanent slavery. In the early days of the colonies, people of all races came to America as indentured servants who, in exchange for the costly ocean voyage, would work out a certain term of 7 years or so with a farmer who paid their fare, and then were free to establish themselves with their own homestead. But in 1700, this all changed with a law case that caused a black man to serve a life of servitude with no recourse to freedom. This accelerated an ever uglier trade in human beings and the establishment of one of the most evil institutions ever perpetuated, across many generations. In sharp contrast were the many speeches and declarations about freedom and equality espoused by those wishing to be free from taxation by the mother country, England.

When I began to study the Revolutionary War, one statement really struck me that I read. Most people think that England sent troops and the colonists fought against these English troops. There were troops sent, that is true. But for the most part, the Revolutionary War was essentially a civil war between the colonists. Not everyone was zealous to break away from England. There was a lot of bullying of these people by the Sons of Liberty. Many of those who were against breaking away had to flee to Canada as the war progressed. Another thing that is not well known is the length of the war. Tensions began to mount much earlier than 1776. And the war dragged on until 1783.

The American Revolution began a fine and noble experiment of living without a monarch, a concept that had not previously been thought possible. But with so many coming to America to seek religious freedom, escaping from oppression by the government, etc. and the influence of the Native Americans and their love of freedom, it was almost a natural result.

People who settled the Outer Banks at this time period were fiercely independent, community-minded, with close-knit families, and like a lot of other isolated places, developed their own brogue, music and methods of doing things. I have loved the Outer Bankers I have known so much because they represent what is good and great about our country. Hard-workers, honest and generous, they lived here on this slender bar of sand in harmony with each other (for the most part) and developed a "live and let live" attitude. Because of the many storms here, they also have, perhaps, more fortitude than those living in easier places. A prime example of their open-heartedness was the decision to build bridges and let vacationers come and enjoy their beautiful islands, rather than try to keep it for themselves. Not sure they understood back then just how many would want to come! Even so, the Outer Banks is still a great place to live, and I think we owe our easy-going attitude here to the resilience of those who have gone before. Next time you say, "It's all good!" Thank an Outer Banker.

If you are interested in how people lived in the 1700's, there is a great Youtube channel by Jas. Townsend & Son, which covers almost everything you would want to know about that era.

Water, Water Everywhere

Like the poem, "The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner," the Outer Banks seems to have the same situation of, "Water, water everywhere, and not a drop to drink." Many people, upon first arriving on the Outer Banks, think that the sounds are like giant lakes. They are not, however, for several reasons. The first one is that they are brackish water, that is, water that is slightly saline. The farther north you go, the fresher the water, to the point that freshwater fish can be caught in north Currituck. The second factor, as it was often explained to me, is that the sounds are like a shallow saucer or bowl that is tilted. When the wind begins to blow from the Northeast, it chases the water westward. Likewise, when it blows southwest, the soundside is subject to flooding. These kinds of things don't happen with inland lakes that flood usually because of streams and rivers filling them to overflowing. This can happen to us, too, except that the ocean takes the overflow usually.

Water is essential to life and in order to be able to live on the Outer Banks each of the cultures who lived here had to solve the problem of fresh water. The ancient Native Americans used the many freshwater ponds throughout the area that are fed by the water table and rains. In most places, the water table is very near the surface, sometimes no more than 4 feet down. With a little fervent digging you can find freshwater. It is somewhat brackish and needs filtering and treating but communities like those who lived in Nags Head Woods and others put down shallow wells for themselves and their livestock. The second source of water which we have in abundance is rainwater. It rains a lot here! This little fact was not lost on early residents and they constructed cisterns, or round barrels that collected the rainwater from a roof. Nowadays we call them, "rain barrels," but the principle is the same. You can see, in the old photo, two attached to a Live Saving Station.

Our modern water supply comes from deep wells on Roanoke Island tapping into an underground aquifer of fossil water. This water is remarkably pure and abundant. They say there is an ample supply, given the current rate of consumption. However, if the need greatly increases in the future, this could stress the supply. I think we often take our water supply for granted and water conservation should be ingrained in every person -- short showers, low-flow toilets, etc. As I drive down the bypass and see automatic sprinklers cranking away even on a rainy day, I come to the conclusion I am the only one that thinks that way.

The Haulover, Here be Dragons


In this blog, usually, I write about time periods. I am always fascinated by the fashions, language and customs of ages past, as well as the big events of those times. But once in awhile I get interested in a place. And certainly, on the Outer Banks, there are a lot of interesting, historically-action-packed places to write about. But one that turns up almost nothing on an internet search is a place just above Buxton that is commonly called, "The Haulover." It is now called, "Canadian Hole," because windsurfers from Canada come down to ply the shallow waters under the watchful eye of the Cape Hatteras lighthouse just a short distance away. It has become such a popular spot for this activity that a special parking lot and facilities have been constructed there.

This narrow strip of sand has seen lots of action. In olden times, when Avon was known as Kinnakeet and Buxton known as "The Cape," it was a place where fishing boats coming from the ocean could haul their boats into the sound by the use of log rollers and ropes (probably, since that was the usual method) and thus save a tedious trek down to Hatteras inlet or up to Roanoke Inlet (pre-1811) or later to Oregon Inlet (opened 1846). Kind of like a maritime shortcut, if you will. It was once the home of a hunting lodge and caretaker's house, complete with swaying palms and green grass in the yard. In the great hurricane of 1944, both the Buxton Hunt Clubhouse and caretaker's house were swept away into the ocean. The caretaker, Curt Gray, and his family, survived by climbing on the roof and then into a rescue boat. In the Ash Wednesday Storm of 1962, a giant rift of an inlet formed here. Thousands of hand-filled sandbags went into the gaping hole after the storm in an effort to fill it, as well as dozens of junk automobiles and trucks, along with a giant bulldozer that disappeared during the storm. And in very ancient times there was an inlet here called Chacandepco that might have seen use by early Spanish explorers or even Drake's or Raleigh's ship's boats, looking for places to settle and colonize, or at least seeking fresh water to take back on board after the long voyage from England.

Yes, it's a place that has seen a lot of action. But most people zoom past it without knowing where they are or greatly caring. They want to know the pavement is strong under their tires, the sand not too deep along the highway and all is well with the world. But...this is the Outer Banks. And probably the thing that makes it so appealing is also the thing that seeks to destroy it, which is the ever moody ocean, played by the great winds of each season.

When I think about a place, since I am very visual, I see images. I see them like a movie in my mind. I can see the 16th century explorer/sailors rowing in their ship's boats with flat caps, linen shirts and short breeches, anxious to find water, wondering if the savages are friendly or what adventures might befall them when they set foot on the land. Right about here on Raleigh's explorers' maps are sea monsters/dragons. In ancient times, a dragon was placed in an area of a map that had not been explored, and sometimes written there would be the phrase, "Here be Dragons." Not that they knew for sure, but certainly something of the sort dwelt there. And I can see the old-time fishermen who went out seeking fish to eat and to supplement their income by trading them inland for much needed grain, jumping into the surf to push their sail fishing boat onto the shore, rolling it up onto logs and moving it across the narrow spit of sand and into the safety of the sound for safe travel back to their sound-side communities, a great advantage if the winds were unfavorable. And I have heard the story of the great hurricane of 1944 from a survivor, the desperate climb into the attic, and how the water kept coming higher and finally escaping out the pitch of the roof through a window to wait for rescue in the wind and rain. And I have heard about the old cars and trucks that are under the sand for many years, wondering what they looked like new, and what they look like now, and why no one has ever found a piece of one there (or maybe they have but it was not that newsworthy).



Engraving by William Pyne 1804
I have often thought that history recorded is not often history as it happened or even as history is remembered. But an even greater tragedy than that is when history is forgotten. In these modern times it is often difficult to relate to how people in the olden days lived. There were no roads, people traveled by boat. A new inlet was looked upon as a great blessing from the sea, unless, of course, it went right through your house. Then it was a horror story you told your grandchildren, how you survived the great storm of 18-- or the great storm of 19--. Nowadays, we just go out and buy a tee shirt and demand the road be put back in place as soon as possible. It is not that I don't think roads are important but only that these roads exist in an impossible place, a place where there might be dragons, and once in awhile, the dragon rises up and eats the road in a fit of pique because no one believes in him anymore. So let us tread cautiously down life's highway, remembering that life is often an adventure in those places on the map where the dragons and sea monsters live.

Favorite Outer Banks Stories

The Outer Banks, with 400 years to draw upon, has a rich history. There are many, many books written about the things that happened here. I have collected quite a few old books and have some favorite stories. I would encourage everyone to start their own collection though and not just take my word for it. You will come up with your own favorites, I guarantee it. I will provide links for books that are still available.


Harper's Currituck Beach 1887, wreck of the Metropolis
My most favorite story comes from the book, "Whalehead, Tales of Corolla, N.C., as told by Norris Austin to Suzanne Tate. This book is out of print but there are still copies floating around. There was an inlet on the stateline boundary between Virginia and North Carolina called Old Currituck Inlet from 1657-1730, and another one called New Currituck Inlet from 1730 to 1828. In the book, Mr. Austin relates how 2 local fishermen were fishing near the now sand covered area (covered by the remnants of the dune "Penny's Hill") which had a small creek, a vestige of the great inlet of long before. It was a "slick cam" (calm) moonlight night and they looked up to see a full-rigged sailing ship under full sail gliding past them up the creek as if the inlet were still there. They thought it was an eerie sight and high-tailed it out of there as quick as possible.

My second favorite story is from Charles Harry Whedbee's book, "Legends of the Outer Banks." This story is about a plantation owner on the mainland of North Carolina who spent summers on the Outer Banks. In those days, probably the very early 1800's, the planters would take their whole household on a barge, with cows, chickens, horses, slaves, wife, and children and try to escape the buggy, oppressively hot North Carolina summers by going to the seaside. A tuberculosis epidemic broke out among the slaves and spread throughout the plantations. The planter hired carpenters and barges and they built shacks for his slaves on the Outer Banks, in the region near the new hospital in Nags Head. Among the slaves were seven sisters, supposed to be daughters of an African Chieftain. For three years the slaves lived on the soundside, raising some vegetables, catching fish and crabs and escaping from the plague on the mainland. When they had fully recovered they were sent back to Perquimmans County to the plantation. In this region were seven sand dunes which came to be known for the seven African sisters, or "The Seven Sisters" dunes. Old-time Outer Bankers could point to each dune and tell the name of each sister. Supposedly, the sisters were seen walking the dunes in the twilight, praying for their husbands and children killed by the plague. Not sure about all that, but it sure is a good story. These dunes are no longer there so I suppose now they have to haunt the Outer Banks Mall and the Outlet Mall.

And probably one of the best stories that you don't often hear anymore concerns the daughter of US Vice President, Aaron Burr (under Thomas Jefferson), who was also the wife of a South Carolina governor, Theodosia Burr Alston, during the war of 1812. This story is in the Whedbee book and, in addition, enumerated by David Stick in, "An Outer Banks Reader." Aaron Burr's political career was a turbulent one and he killed the famous Revolutionary war hero, Alexander Hamilton, in a duel. They had a different method of solving differences back then, those politicians. And then he was tried for treason for a plan of secession for the Mississippi territory as well as Kentucky and Tennessee. He fled to England but the war of 1812 broke out and so he returned to New York. His daughter made plans to visit him, traveling by ship, namely the "Patriot," with a letter of safe passage from the governor of South Carolina addressed to the Royal Navy, so that the ship could get through the British blockade of the coast. A storm came up (a lot of our history has to do with those) and the ship ran aground near Nags Head. Mr. Whedbee goes into some elaborate explanation that he received from those he interviewed but David Stick did not verify all those details with his account of the story. But one thing is known. The ship did land there because both accounts said that years later a doctor was treating a patient and noticed a portrait of a young woman hanging in a fisherman's cottage. He was given the portrait for his fee and took it back home with him. There are several stories about what happened to the young woman, pirates at sea, pirates on land, she went out of her mind and couldn't remember who she was, etc., etc. but no one really knows what happened to her or the ship's crew. The portrait now hangs in the Lewis Walpole Library in Fairfield, CT. But probably the greatest mystery is why her father and husband did not conduct a more thorough search for her.

The last story comes from David Stick's book, "Graveyard of the Atlantic," which is also available as a kindle edition. On the morning of January 31, 1921, beach-walkers were greeted with the strange sight of a five-masted schooner run aground on Diamond Shoals with all sails set. The ocean was in such a fury that day and for a few more days that no one could get a boat near the vessel. When they finally got on board on Feburary 4, they found an even stranger sight. The sea charts were scattered all over the master's room, food was set out in the galley and on the stove. This ship, the Carroll A. Deering, had set sail for South America and was on a return trip when she ran aground. The life-boats were gone and so the food in galley indicated they left in a great hurry. But to this day, no explanation has been found for this strange occurrence. The ship was so badly damaged by subsequent storms that it was dynamited. A section of her bow floated ashore on Ocracoke and was a tourist attraction for many years. Various pieces and parts were rounded up by Hatteras Islanders and I have heard about some duck decoys that were made from the ship.

If you love the Outer Banks and history, these books, as well as a host of others will keep you entertained for many hours. I highly recommend beginning a collection for your home library or beach cottage.
Here are links for a few more:
Hidden History of the Outer Banks
The Outer Banks of North Carolina
Outer Banks Reader
Seasoned by Salt
Vintage Outer Banks
Reflections of the Outer Banks
The Outer Banks in Vintage Post Cards
and those are just a few. There are many, many more but these are ones I have found accurate and useful.

The Outer Banks in the early 1800's

The early 1800's, sometimes referred to as "The Regency Period," was an interesting time on the Outer Banks. It was the grand age of sail and people could sit on Jockey's Ridge and watch a parade of sailing ships, clippers, packets, and steamers ply the currents offshore that were the primary route for most commerce on the east coast. That is one reason why it was called "The Graveyard of the Atlantic," because ships hugged the shoreline and ran afoul of the shifting shoals and frequent storms. At that time there was no life saving service with stations every few miles and shipwrecked victims were rescued by alert Outer Bankers who spied the ship in distress. Many an Outer Banker family began as victims of shipwrecks.

Oregon Inlet and Hatteras Inlet were not yet open at this time period and the only viable inlet for navigation was Roanoke Inlet that cut through the Banks south of Nags Head. This inlet closed, like all inlets like to do, and caused great consternation to the community that had sprung up on Roanoke Island and the towns along the rivers who depended on trade from the ships. Ocracoke, with its inlet next to Portsmouth Island was often referred to, even from the 1700's, as "Pilot Town" because ships would send a boat ashore to hire a pilot, someone who knew the current situation of the shoals and could navigate the ship safely to a harbor. Once anchored the ship would be what was termed, "lightered." This means it's cargo would be transferred to smaller boats to travel inland for trade. So the closing of the only navigable inlet in 1810 prompted a visit by the President, James Monroe, to the Outer Banks to seek a solution. Nowadays, we get our NC governor over here once in awhile who laments our plight with Oregon Inlet and then flies back to Raleigh with no action taken. But in 1819, the President of the young nation of America promised to take action and actually did so. A survey was ordered and conducted by the Corps of Engineers in 1826 and mapped in 1829 to discuss the viability of building a permanent canal across the sound, through the Banks where Roanoke Inlet had been. Here is a link to the map. If they had followed through with construction, the Outer Banks would have then had a permanent inlet, protected by precedence and we could have saved all the money we have currently spent in litigation over keeping Oregon Inlet open and maintaining the Bonner Bridge. History is always so interesting.

During this time period the people who lived on the Outer Banks were mostly subsistence farmers and fishers. The high pitched intensity of the late 1800's when it seems to us now that all of nature was ransacked to supply an enormous appetite for every resource without any thought for future flocks, herds, fishery, etc. had not yet begun. It was with great difficulty that goods were transported and people did a little farming of vegetables, hogs, cows, etc. on the sound-sides, fished a little and salted down and sold their excess to trade for corn inland, gathered up wood and broken cargo from shipwrecks to build their houses, hunted in the winter to feed themselves and otherwise had a good life in the abundance of wildlife the Outer Banks offered.

The war of 1812 was fought off the coast of the Outer Banks and provided many a tale from seamen of impressment into the Royal Navy illegally, which is actually what started the war. Sailors of American ships were frequently seized and made to serve aboard British ships. Prior to this war, America's national anthem had been, "Hail, Columbia." But watching the bombardment all through the night, Francis Scott Key wrote our current national anthem, "The Star Spangled Banner."

This time period is remembered by reenactors through the efforts of the Jane Austen Society and a ship from that time period, the U.S.S. Constitution (Old Ironsides) which is docked at Pier 1 of the Charlestown Navy Yard at the end of Boston's Freedom Trail. This was an important time period for our struggling young country, just finding its feet on the world stage and this ship has come to symbolize that time for many Americans. Various plans through the years arose to scrap her, but she withstood them all, and is one of our country's best and brightest icons of the Grand Age of Sail. You might wonder what a sailing ship in Boston has to do with the Outer Banks? At the time of her building in 1797, the Outer Banks was covered with ancient live oaks which were mostly cut down to build ships. So I like to think of her, at least to begin with, as a floating part of the Outer Banks.

Photo Attribute: "Chase of the Constitution, July 1812" by Anton Otto Fischer (1882–1962) - U.S. Naval Historical Center. Record number NH 85542-KN.. Licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

Here is a study conducted by ECU of inlets, past, present and future
This map was included in the study

The Outer Banks in the 1500's

The 1500's, worldwide, was an era of foment that gave birth in many ways to the modern era. It was the end of the medieval period, the beginning of the Renaissance, the time of Shakespeare and the beginning of the Protestant Reformation. It was also the age of "discovery," though all of what got discovered was known and inhabited by many different civilizations and cultures already. A little like discovering the land in your neighbor's yard and claiming it for yourself. But, be that as it may, it was a very exciting time in a lot of ways. Popular history tends to focus upon the big events but, in my opinion, what is much more interesting are the forces set into motion that brought about those big events. The 1500's was very much a time period full of these.

Narrowing our focus down to the Outer Banks, probably the greatest event that can referenced in the 1500's was the arrival of European explorers to these shores. Starting in mid-century, England moved from a trader nation in the Caribbean to seeking raw materials, land for colonization and military fortifications for herself. Spain was at least 70 years ahead of her and she had been content to travel in a smaller sphere, trading goods. But Spain became increasingly hostile as a trading partner. France had made some early inroads in the Americas but was also suffering from attacks by the aggressive Spanish. In this back-story of American colonization, England was very much the underdog, coming along late and without the wealth and strength of other European nations. Unlike today, exploration was not financed by the government. It was privately funded, and privately staffed. Much has been written about Sir Walter Raleigh and his various attempts at exploration. The first voyage in 1584 was mainly a military expedition, and the second one in 1585-1586, a trading/mapping endeavor. But in 1587, Raleigh and his financial backers had a new thought to send men, women and children, aka colonists, to settle around a fort and provide support for ships calling at their port. This port was to be on the Chesapeake Bay, not the Outer Banks. But due to a number of unhappy circumstances the group of settlers disembarked at Roanoke Island -- which was, by all means, a poor choice to support 100 plus hungry English, with surrounding natives still pretty angry about the offenses of the first two groups of voyagers.

Probably the most interesting question we could ask ourselves about these voyages is, "Why did they come?" The answers are as varied as the people who were recruited. And not all came willingly. Some were "impressed" as seamen. England was also engaged in settling its people in Ireland as a colonial effort so it was not that easy to find recruits for the long, uncomfortable voyage across the ocean. People were more willing to move to the island next door among the Irish than an island in America. (And this idea they had of colonizing Ireland is still causing problems, even today.) London was bursting at the seams with people seeking jobs and income in the bustling city. According to David Beers-Quinn, most of the colonists who came with the 1587 voyage were Londoners, city folk, looking for a new life.

England was stratified into classes back then and remains so in some ways even today. The upper classes, or "gentry" came with their servants to find their fortunes, hoping to secure gold, pearls and gems. And once it was established there were none of these items nearby, this group became rather surly and uncooperative. There was gold in North Carolina but not in any coastal area and ironically it was first discovered by a Hessian soldier's son, Conrad Reed, after the Revolutionary War in 1799. It only took 200 years to find the gold the Raleigh colonists were seeking. Somewhere in the middle of the social strata were craftsmen. Raleigh planned the expedition as carefully as we now plan space voyages, staffing his colony with all kinds of tradesmen, specialists in metallurgy, masonry, cartography and sundry other Elizabethan-era skills. The lower classes were represented as well to work as laborers, agriculturalists, etc. Most armies in those times had a distaff portion that followed the male soldiers, consisting of wives and daughters to do the work around camp, so the idea of bringing along the women and children was actually quite typical. These peasant Londoner colonists were not skilled at hunting because hunting and game were reserved for the leisure activity of the upper classes, which might have been a serious impediment to their success on Roanoke Island. They were also not knowledgeable about growing conditions on the Outer Banks or the Chesapeake. The land near the ocean consists mostly of sand, not at all conducive to supporting a vast expanse of farmed fields. They also thought that tropical plants they obtained in the Caribbean would grow further north. And another big factor in growing things on the Outer Banks is how stormy it is usually. So even if the crops can grow here, as they found out with the Colington Island colony in the mid-1600's, a big wind can come along and flatten all your agricultural hopes and dreams in just a few hours.

The reasons why they came to America really relate to which social class they belonged to. The gentry, as I have said, came for the bling. But for the poor, climbing up the gangplank of a ship and suffering deprivation for several months was appealing if it meant getting out of crowded London, where plagues stalked the citizenry, where minor offences like women who nagged too much or wearing the wrong color or type of cloth could warrant fiendish punishments that we would not inflict on anyone (or even animals!) nowadays, no matter what their crime. And while conditions had improved from medieval times, they were still far from pleasant for anyone. Everyone from queen to peasant suffered from lice and fleas because it was not understood that people should take daily baths in warm water to prevent sanitation issues. They treated their skin with herbs rather than water and thought wearing a little bit of fur would cause the fleas to live in the fur. And of course, there was no waste treatment (open sewers) which is why there were so many plagues. But the defining issue for all classes came in the form of religious freedom. King Henry the VIII, Queen Elizabeth's father, had broken away from the Catholic Church. Printing presses, newly invented, were churning out bibles in English non-stop even though the church forbid printing the Word of God in English. Schools were springing up everywhere and now people could read the Bible for themselves and began to ask questions about how the Church conducted itself. The Puritan movement, so prevalent in the 1600's, so that it even became for awhile the ruling government in England during a Civil War, was just beginning. These Puritans (later called Pilgrims) were not well-liked by the Church of England or the Catholic Church either and were persecuted everywhere they went. It occurred to both the backers of the new colonies and to the Puritans themselves as well, that America might just be the place to find the freedom to worship as they pleased.

Even though Roanoke Island was considered a failure as a colony, it set the stage and was a sort of dress rehearsal for the colonies that came after it, namely Jamestown in Virginia and Plimouth in Massachusetts. The English were quick studies, and carefully analyzed where they went wrong. They stopped trying to grow tropical fruit and the government started backing and funding the colonization effort. And they stopped persecuting the Puritans for reading the Bible -- which is how we got the "Authorized King James edition."

Most people think that there was one lost colony from one voyage to Roanoke Island. Actually, there were several voyages and several colonies and each time people got left behind. One small group was designated to figuratively and literally "hold the fort" but because of friction with the neighboring Indians, came under attack, and also figuratively and literally, "sailed into the sunset" and were never seen again. Another time, three men were sent upriver to deliver the chief's son (Skyco) whom the Englishmen had held hostage for a year and these English soldiers were left behind, also never to be seen again. Given the atmosphere of Elizabethan England and their fondness for torture and punishment for minor infractions I think I would have probably gotten "lost" as a colonist, too, and found a friendly Indian tribe to settle down with and live in comfort. After all, my ancestors came to these shores for many of the same reasons Raleigh's colonists came to the Outer Banks. A quest for religious freedom, changes in landholdings in the United Kingdom that left the Irish, Scots and Welsh landless or jobless or both, plagues and famines, etc., etc. Lots of reasons to leave the old countries, believe me.

Paleo Native American Study

When the Europeans came to America, an old and complex society came to an end. The people who had lived in this country for many thousands of years had worked out a unique system of trade, warfare and lifestyle unlike anywhere else on the planet. Starting in 2003 I gathered some survival books and started working on projects. The purpose of my study was to learn who the Native Americans were and how they lived before any influence had taken place from other cultures. I came away from this study with a new appreciation for primitive technology and the skills necessary for survival in the wilderness as well as an appreciation of the teamwork it must have taken to maintain a village and raise a family.

When John White and the other explorers sent by Sir Walter Ralegh came to the shores of the Outer Banks they found a peaceful, friendly group of people who were willing to trade food for all the "trifles" the soldiers and scientists had brought with them. And yet, these items were essentially luxury items to them, and labor-saving items because they had everything they needed to live here. In the past I have conducted a presentation of all my craft items and their uses. I thought I would do a mini-online presentation concerning lifeways of the Algonquin people who lived on the Outer Banks. Due to the earliness of contact and the result thereof, the Coastal Algonquin, as a separate culture with their own language, religion, family structure, etc. is gone. There are still northern Algonquin people who are very much alive and are keeping their language and culture alive. But, in terms of finding a group of people with a living culture like what was practiced on the Outer Banks, that is no longer possible. What we can learn through the accounts of early explorers or through archeological study is all there is left of this once vibrant and interesting group of people. What follows is what I would say typically during a presentation about these people who once lived on the Outer Banks.

 Corn was the principle grain although they did also eat many different roots and parts of grasses such as the river cane. Fields were laid out in the slash and burn technique and when a field played out in a few years they moved on to another area. Young boys were given the duty of chasing away the crows and other creatures who would spoil the corn harvest. Hoes were constructed of a welk shell attached to a handle or the shoulder bone of a deer was also used. Crops were not irrigated, so the farmers were at the mercy of the rains. Typically they would companion crop, growing corn, beans and squash together, which, as every gardener knows, really cuts down on weeding.
 Hunting was an important pastime for the people and yearly the young men and some of the younger women would go inland to hunt in the piedmont forests where there were deer, eastern buffalo and other big game animals. The last eastern buffalo was shot in the Shenandoah mountains and none exist of this type of animal, only the western type survive. Every life was considered sacred and the people would pray for the animals after they took their lives. Survival was not a light thing, even for animals. Hides were carefully tanned to a butter softness using the brain tan method. Pictured is a cattail leaf quiver and arrows made of river cane with turkey fletching using hide glue and pitch pine glue for the stone arrow points. The bow is a "self-bow" meaning all one piece, not laminated.

 Transportation was by means of dugout canoes. These canoes were large, made from a single tree and could transport 20-30 people. The trees were cut down by use of fire and stone axes like that pictured. They then used fire to hollow out the inside and an adze to scrape out the charcoal. Which could then be used in cooking fires. I read that canoe-making was a winter activity. Seems like a nice warm way to spend the day. When a canoe was not going to be used for a length of time it was submerged in the river, weighed down with mud or rocks. That is why people still find them from time to time. Since they might have been forgotten or the owners died and did not retrieve their canoe.
 Basketry is a very skilled pastime and my feeble efforts do not in any way resemble some of the fine examples of Native American basketry still practiced today. But it is fun and rewarding to do it and you have to start somewhere in learning skills. Pictured also is a whelk hoe, and some actual paleo arrow and spear points as well as a drill point and some bird points. The point on the right is a machine made one I found on ebay. You can really tell the difference between a modern electric grinder and a hand knapped arrow point. Much finer work, much sharper edge.

Hafting a stone knife involves cutting a channel in the antler, wood or bone and then using pitch pine glue, made with pine sap, some grass stubble and charcoal, heated up and applied to the point and in the channel. It is secured with wet rawhide which dries very stiff and tightens around the point to hold it securely. The only problem I encountered with this is that on a very hot day in a very hot car, like 120 degrees, the pitch pine melts and drips out of the socket. Of course, the people we are talking about didn't have this particular problem.

Houses were made of saplings bent over in an arch and secured with cordage made of grasses or vines. Then mats were constructed of cattail leaves and because of the concave nature of the leaf they could provide a shingling effect and shed the rain. Tree bark was also used to cover the wigwams, sometimes called "longhouses." Mats were very large, obviously as large as could be made in order to cover many feet of the length of a house.

Also of use is the river cane which can be split when green and wet and make into an effective screen to block out the sun. Examples of screens like this have been found in the Southwest in the dwellings of the Anasazi.

 Pictured in the John White drawings was a crab net like this one made of cordage. They also made other nets of cordage. Net-making is a long tedious process but certainly can accomplish a great deal when fishing that a spear or weir can't accomplish so a net for coastal dwelling fish-eating people was a very big necessity. I had fun making my crab net out of green willow bent in a circle and then a smaller green willow center and applied the cordage outward from the inside circle.
 This is a fish weir I came upon at Roanoke Island Festival Park. It is well constructed but not the right material as the John White and Thomas Harriot documents said they used river cane for their weirs. These function like a modern pound net that is put out in the sound in a channel where the fish are known to swim and then they are funneled into it but can't find a way to get out.
 Life can't always be just about survival and there has to be time allowed for recreation, worship of the creator and other activities of civilized life. Here pictured are some toys and games that would have been used by young people in the village. A corn husk doll, a game similar to bee-bees in holes like children still play with, a game with a bowl and counters for gambling, pickup sticks which was a Native American invention, another betting game of hiding the stone in the moccasin, a type of bull-roarer, another variation of the familiar cup and ball game.
 Gourds grew very large in the native gardens and were used to carry water from the pond. If you chew one end of a willow you have for yourself a paint brush! Very useful. Oysters, besides being eaten in prodigious quantities also provided scrapers for various uses. A clam shell with two halves together makes a set of tweezers. Cordage was always useful and could be made from a variety of materials such as willow bark, marsh grass (spartina), cattail leaves or Yucca leaves. Having a hollow cane to encourage the fire to flare is very useful.

This photo is of the interior of the wigwam at Roanoke Island Festival Park and illustrates the bent sapling under structure. I was disappointed it was some kind of burlap vinyl siding, not very realistic, but more so in the dark of the interior than standing outside. I asked them why they had no Native American interpreters and only recorded museum talk for people to listen to because I thought it would be so much more effective to have a person relating the Native American side of things.
Inside the wigwam would be benches attached to the walls and up off the floor to keep away from fleas and other pestilence. On these were placed grass mats. There is nothing quite so aromatic as working with grass and I suppose sleeping on it would be like sleeping on a hay bale as I used to do as a child on the farm. Grass mats are fairly easy to make, and require just a crude loom and a lot of marsh grass (or in this case, dune grass which is not protected by law). The cats really love this mat so I have to keep it under wraps or it will be all over the house in pieces.
Of course, if you grow grain you also have to have some way to grind it into flour. Flour was also made from live oak acorns. Pictured is half of a mortar and pestle. They were also made of hollowed out logs with a mallet (plunger type) for grinding. I went out and gathered up a bunch of live oak acorns and boiled them to remove the tannic acid. After they dried, I roasted them with a little oil and some salt. Living near the sea, salt would have been easy to obtain, and essential for human health. For fat, the natives used bear grease, or bear fat since there were, as there now are again, quite a lot of bears.
 Gourds were also used for storage. If used for water carrying they were first coated with beeswax or some other kind of proofing agent such as cactus pad juice. I tried to use that as a proofing agent but the gourd was still very porous and still leaked so I am not sure what I did wrong. The cactus pads can also be eaten, once you remove the outer skin and I also did that. The red fruit is not very sweet and the inside of the pads taste slightly like green beans. One very big treat that we have on the Outer Banks is the persimmons which come ripe after the first frost. When they are black and look rotten they are at their sweetest. Pictured also is a pottery bowl. The Native Americans on the Outer Banks were accomplished potters and used conical terra cotta pots to cook in by setting the pointed end down in the heaped coals. They loved to make a kind of mash out of the cornmeal, kind of like modern mush and would often incorporate fruit in their meat dishes. Pots were made by the coil method and fired in a fire pit. Sherds of pottery from the Native American Village on Roanoke Island can still sometimes be found on Roanoke Island. With a lot of prayer I found one not long ago.

 Mastering a fire drill is no easy task and requires a bowdrill, the right kind of wood for a fireboard, the right kind of wood for the spindle and a rock for the socket. Once all the elements are assembled you are only halfway there. I got a lot of smoke but never got an ember. So I thought I would trade with the sailors from the ships passing by for a steel striker to go with my piece of flint. Or pray for a great lightning strike in a tree. Also pictured are some antlers used for various sewing purposes of hide and a rawhide painted knife sheath. You can split willow shafts to make a sort of clothespin, pictured in the front.

 Wearing lots of jewelry was a requirement for almost everyone back then but no glass beads were used. Instead, they used shell, bone, wood, clay or horn to make their beads. Considering that they had only stone drills, the work they did is quite superb and must have taken a long time to construct. I made a few beads out of a cherry branch and some from sea shells and it is really a lot of work. It requires patience as well because there is a lot of breakage. I think the high level of jewelry making they practiced would indicate that it was not all survival, every minute about food gathering but in fact, there was a lot of free time to engage in activities for the pure pleasure of doing them, i.e. Artistry!
 When fishing with a hand-line in clear water you can sometimes use a "gorge" hook, at least you used to be able to, though I think it is now illegal. This is the type of hook that was used. Needles for sewing were made of splits of deer bone. These can be incredibly sharp. Or you can also wet only the rear portion of deer leg sinew and use the dried part to function as a needle, which works in soft material and effectively gives you the needle and thread all in one piece. You can also make containers from tree bark if the bark is strong enough and doesn't fall apart.

 At least among the Southeast Mound builders which was a long time before John White & Co. showed up (destroyed by Spanish intrusions), the Native Americans wove cloth and wore clothing made from cloth, which was probably hemp fiber or nettle fiber. Pictured is a tumpline made by the card weaving method which gives you an incredibly strong piece of strapping. I don't know if they practiced card weaving but tribes in the North made sashes on a small inkle loom so perhaps it was like that. Burdens were sometimes carried on the back with a tumpline, or a strong strap that went across the forehead. You need strong neck muscles to pull this off. Over the course of the study I made an abundance of leather pouches since every large project (like a dress or apron) left a lot of little hide scraps that could be used. (Waste not, want not!) So I have quite a lot of little tobacco pouches, belt pouches and pouches of all kinds! The leather belts were made by cutting in a circle on a piece of hide and then pulling the resulting strip taut to take out the bends and then braiding 3 strips together.


 I am also not very good at coil baskets. There are Lumbee Native Americans that I know that can produce breath-taking baskets of the longleaf pine needles. This one was a start using dune grass. We also have on the Outer Banks not very long loblolly needles. It is tied off with some strips of yucca leaves. It's a start but I didn't finish it. Sometimes trade networks got started because one group was much better at making something than another group. So I will have to think of something I am good at to trade for some better coiled pine needle baskets.
 Points for spears or arrows on the Outer Banks were very creative, using shark teeth, the spines of horseshoe crabs, just the bare wood sharpened and tempered in the fire or a triangular piece of flint, probably obtained by trading with Native Americans in the interior where there are, like, actually, rocks, since we don't have any here. Sometimes rocks will wash down from the rivers or in from the ocean, but otherwise the Outer Banks was rockless.

Pictured left is a deerhide braintanned dress that I made for a friend. This garment would have been worn in the winter along with moccasins, fur leggings and a fur cape. They were not really into hats that I can see, and the men weren't really into even having hair, so I guess they were quite a lot warmer blooded than the English or than we modern people are today. At any rate, there are no pictures to substantiate a garment like this in John White's collection. Possibly, this was in the collection that ended up getting tossed out by the sailors in their haste to get the colonists off the island before the big storm. I like to think that anyway. This is a typical 3-hide dress worn by women on the great plains. What they wore on the Outer Banks was a kind of apron, not really a breechclout which goes from front to back through the legs but just hung from a belt. A unisex garment as both sexes were pictured wearing this. This outfit is problematic for all sorts of reasons. From a purely practical position, it is not the least bit warm, especially if the wind is blowing, not that modest either. Breezy in summer might be most advantageous but not in all the other seasons. Some people are pictured in John White's drawings as having a shift like garment with one strap going over the shoulder or two straps over the shoulders. Some wear two aprons, one front and one rear. Reenactors have been struggling ever since with these little outfits and you see all manner of adaptations to keep them in the land of modicum and decorum. Ha, ha. I wasn't really sure how to solve the problem of wearing the authentic apparel and still am not sure. But it is a most interesting topic for discussion. Pictured is a shift made from linen in a style similar to the drawings. This would have been hemp or nettle cordage woven into cloth.


 Something I learned about this study was that resources can be utilized in really interesting ways and as always, necessity being the mother of invention, having only natural materials to work with, and even more limiting, only those found on the Outer Banks for the most part, was actually not limiting at all. River cane or Switch cane is segmented and tapered so that it can make little tight-fitting stoppers of vials. A nifty place to keep powdered herbs, paints, etc. I am going to close with this as an example of everything that I learned over the years of this study.


In conclusion, I really wanted to find a traditional way of life that was in keeping with those of my ancestors. My ancestors lived in Europe at the end of the stone age in a manner similar to the original people of the Outer Banks, though they went on to found a culture that used metal in many ways. We all have a Paleolithic culture like they had here on the Outer Banks at our roots. Sometimes it is important and helpful to go back to the roots of something -- in this case a lifestyle. It seems to me that we are missing so much by living the way we do now, so cut off from nature, so isolated from each other and from the way people always lived before the modern era.

As an exercise to see if I could find any areas I had missed, I tried to imagine a typical day in the life of the Native Americans who lived here and in every season, since tasks and food varied with each season. At the end of the study I felt as though, if transported by time machine to Fall 1580, Roanoke Island, I could walk into the village, past the barking dogs quarreling over a bone, and the children playing games, past the cook fires and the women cooking in their earthen pots, past the cornfield and the boys shooing away the crows, past the old men sitting chatting in front of a wigwam, past the young men pulling up with their canoe and their catch of fish -- and really feel like I knew what was going on and how these people lived on the Outer Banks -- and maybe in some small way, know them and understand them and in the end, love them for the people they once were. And by doing so, have a life today in harmony with nature and be able to find and love all that is still here.

Moor "Lost Colonists"

You might think that I don't know how to spell "More" but that is not the case, as you will find if you keep reading. I have just finished reading "Set Fair for Roanoke" by David Beers Quinn, the noted Irish historian whose scholarly research about the Ralegh (also not a misspelling) Voyages is a must-read on the subject. I have, over the 30 years I have lived on the Outer Banks, read lots of books and heard lots of accounts of these explorations by the English in the 16th century. Most of what I have read or heard has left me with more questions than were answered. It is amazing that there can be so much misinformation about such a simple subject. They came, they lived, they died. And that about sums it up. But the problem is that, unlike successful colonies like Jamestown and Plymouth, there are no documents or graves to explain where they died. We are left with a mystery -- and where there is mystery, fiction rushes in to fill the gap with ever more outrageous explanations.

This book is a pretty thick one and brought out a number of details I had never heard before. I was always troubled by the burning down of a village inland by some of the explorers, over the theft of a single silver cup. It didn't seem like the punishment fit the crime, somehow. The author explained that the men of that particular voyage split into different forces and that one was led by Phillip Amadas, who was known to be rather short and something of a hot-head. Oh! I see! I know people like that.

Another thing that came out was the far-reaching explorations of the force that came with Ralph Lane, John White and Thomas Harriot. These guys were everywhere! Even to Chesapeake Bay and very far inland. They had troubled relations with the Indians on Roanoke Island but considering how many villages they encountered in their explorations, the native population must have been very receptive to the guys with the neat metal stuff who were willing to trade it for food. Deal! The author stressed that the soldiers made every effort to be on equal (well, almost equal), peaceful terms with the natives. When they encountered problems with one particular chief (Wingina) they tried to eliminate just him and his cronies, rather than the entire village of people. It reminded me of modern day CIA tactics. There was that unfortunate incident of mistaken identity when White's colonists attacked the natives at Wingina's deserted village and they were actually friendly relatives of Manteo (Oops!) that had come up from Hatteras to scavenge for food. But otherwise, they mostly got along with their Indian neighbors.

Another thing I didn't know -- all this traveling had a good purpose -- they laboriously traveled up every river and mapped every inch of the coastal area in a surprisingly accurate fashion. Thanks to having taken Manteo and Wanchese home to England on a previous voyage and the brilliant work of Thomas Harriot in linguistics, they were able to converse with all the Algonquins they met. All the traveling also had a bad purpose, but an unintended one, as the natives had no immunity to certain European diseases and in some villages dropped like flies. John White said the plague seemed to affect only those who weren't friendly to them. Possibly that was a coincidence? As we now know, germs are pretty indiscriminate.

And the last thing that came out in the book was a curious happening that seems to have gotten swept under the historical rug altogether. When Sir Francis Drake showed up at Roanoke Island, he had just been to St. Augustine and liberated some 600 captives from the Spanish forces there. He had promised these Moors, South American Indians and Africans their freedom. So he dropped all but 100 of them off at Roanoke Island and picked up the soldiers who had not been re-supplied and were getting in dire straits, John White included, to take them back to England. We spend a lot of time wondering what happened to the 100+ English of the 1587 voyage. Why is it that we are unconcerned about what happened to these 600 poor souls? Just a question.

David Beers Quinn had all sorts of documentation from the later Jamestown settlement that indicated the bulk of the 100+ colonists, with maybe a small holding force left on Roanoke or down on Croatoan (aka Hatteras Island) went to the Chesapeake Bay to live with the Chesapian Indians and 20 years later (1607), in the same month the first Jamestown ships arrived were slaughtered by Powhatan and his tribe. Of course, by now there were not 100+ white men and women, due to dying of various causes such as scurvy, snake bites, starvation and sundry other maladies of living outdoors. But it seems to me that trying to bury the remaining English and Chesapians would require a lot of work, and leave a mass grave for someone to find later. Also, he pointed out that they had several cannons, armament and about 100 sea chests. Why is it that no one has ever unearthed these items in the constant bull-dozing of Chesapeake or Norfolk? Somewhere under MacArthur Center there are 100 sea chests from 1587? Hmmm. Seems unlikely. If the cargo was lost when they tried to get to the Chesapeake you would think parts of the sea chests would have kept washing in from time to time. People have been roaming the beach looking for whales ever since but no one ever mentioned finding lots of metal strapping.

Other theories abound around the internet as to where they went. A group of archeologists think they went inland, like somewhere around Chocowinity. Then there is that patch on the map with a fort under it which is a golf course (Scotch Hall Preserve) which is not near Chocowinity. Another group thinks they all went to the Croatoan, which was Hatteras Island. And if you go see the Lost Colony play you know they all marched off singing, which would have been a little wet in short order, as Roanoke is a small island and you can't really just march away. And in truth, they had a pinnace (ship's boat). Since there are so many theories, I thought I would add my two cents. The failed colony at Popham in Maine built a pinnace and sailed back to England when things went awry. So maybe they thought to leave a small group of men (they were composed of mostly men -- like 100 or so guys and only 17 women) with Manteo in Hatteras and the rest tried to sail back but got caught in a big storm and sank out at sea. The man they put in charge after Gov. John White left was Roger Bailie. I think he probably said (this is just a guess), "Hey, this is really not working out here -- supplies running out, soil too sandy for gardening, war with the nearby Indians, everyone has forgotten about us...We have the Pinnace. Let's go back home." I am not sure why Powhatan was bragging to John Smith about killing them all. Maybe he got tired of hearing questions about them and decided to come up with a conspiracy theory all his own. Maybe he wondered why no one seemed too concerned about the many Moors, Africans and South American Indians roaming around the interior of North Carolina and Virginia. Now, that's really a mystery.

You can read more about the liberated slaves of St. Augustine here. You can view a lot of John White's drawings at Virtual Jamestown, as well as maps like the one above.

Eulogy for a Handwritten Letter

Lately, I have read that school systems will no longer teach the cursive alphabet. Which has brought to my mind all sorts of questions. How will these young people write checks, since the second line is for your laborious interpretation of dollars and cents in cursive, at least so far as you can remember it (Oh, no one pays by check anymore?). Or how will they be able to read the misplaced letter sent to them that the post office has decided to deliver, now 90 years later? Or how will they be able to do research, reading the original transcript of Lincoln's speech at Gettysburg, written in cursive? What will a school room look like, without the cursive letters running around the top edge of the blackboard? (Oh, blackboards are gone, too?) It's enough to keep one up at night, wondering what the world is coming to.

Also of late, I have fallen in love with the BBC show, "Lark Rise to Candleford." This series is set in the late Victorian era, a time I once thought to be so very dark, thanks to the writings of Charles Dickens. But these little stories are infused with light and so much fun so I even went out and bought the book. In the introduction to the trilogy of "Lark Rise" books, a startling statement was made -- that the modern age set about to deliberately murder the ancient age. This premise began to take hold of me. Whether the death was quick and deliberate, or just a slow starvation of oxygen to all that once had been, the fact remains that the ancient age is dead. No funeral notice was posted or newspaper mention made, except in little news articles -- like the end of cursive being taught. Always the end of this or that, things no longer available, things discarded, ways and means rendered outmoded by the inventions of new things that don't do the job even half as well -- the ancient age, by the loss of its fingers and toes, arms and legs, lungs, guts and heart, has finally died. Or has it? Like the final chapter of some murder mystery where all concerned are relieved to have the evidence buried -- then a hand surfaces to let the reader know all is not quite dead and there is more yet to come.

There was a time when getting a letter was a very big deal. The system was remarkably efficient for the times. I have some letters from the Civil War and there is virtually no address on them. No state, no zip code, no street address. The post office was just supposed to know that my ancestor was in that town and somehow get the letter into his hands, during wartime, no less. Letters were affixed closed by means of candlewax and a seal. Try sending one of these today! The wax would gum up the sorting machine and shut the facility down completely. The advantage of letters was also its disadvantage. They moved sloooowly. People had to be patient. In the world of today where you can know what your friend had for breakfast (as if it had any importance), even before their stomach knows, the speed of old-time letters seems glacial. If letters had moved as quickly in the old days as messages do today we would never have had the war of 1812 because the letter advocating peace would have arrived on time. As it was, a long delay meant forces were put into motion that could not easily be retrieved.

On the other hand, our ancestors did not have to wade through endless cat videos on facebook to find out what their grandchildren were doing. They could write to them and ask them. Another advantage of letters was that it was a treasure to keep. Almost everyone has a sheaf of letters in the attic now from family members long gone. Reading through the letters, time stops and you are back in the daily concerns of another era. The look of the stationary, the feel of the paper, the sweep of their handwriting in the fading ink -- all of these cannot be replicated by a tweet, text, instant message, or facebook chat. And, unless the letter fell into the wrong hands, letters were incredibly private back then. Verbiage went out to just one person or family, instead of 500 of your closest friends whom you have never met and possibly the secret perusal of hackers and the government as your missal flies through cyberspace. Also, unlike today, you had a feeling you were communicating with them since they answered questions you had asked, instead of a post that may or may not be read but no one comments or "likes" it so you have no idea it was noticed among the other 5,000 things in the newsfeed (mostly those cat videos). There is much more communication today, it is true. But I would venture to say, a lot less is being said.

Letters, since they carried importance in people's lives, were formal. They started with a salutation -- "My Dear Nellie." They ended with a closing -- "Affectionately yours, with all my love." In between the writer strove to connect with his or her recipient with as much elevated phrasing as possible. If your handwriting or composition skills were not up to par, you found someone with a "good hand" who could write the letter for you. Spelling and composition were erratic, at best, unless the writer was some sort of scholar, and even then spelling varied greatly (no spellcheck back then). In the late 1800's, handwriting, aka calligraphy, rose to a zenith in achievement. You can see this in old catalog pages embellished with abundant flourishes, lavish pen & ink drawings, etc. But typewriters were invented and then computers. However, calligraphy is, by no means, dead. There are quite a few books available from Amazon, websites for calligraphy societies and craftspersons on Etsy who will hand-letter your wedding invitations, etc., etc.

I must say, I really enjoyed those days of going to the mail box at the end of the lane when people still wrote letters. In amongst the bills were always these little highlights of joy from those I loved. And every letter looked different, and every handwriting unique to the individual. It is interesting to me that my cursive handwriting closely resembles my mother's. I don't remember studying her writing, it just flows out of me in the same manner, like something genetic. And before online catalogs it was always a big treat to get catalogs from favorite suppliers. You might think it was a waste of trees, but many is the tale of old Sears catalogs that were pressed into duty in the outhouse or used as wallpaper. Nowadays, when I go to the post office, it is just the bills, errrrr... and junk mail I have to throw away, Arrgh! No more treasures in the mail for the attic and for future generations to enjoy. All this nostalgia gives me an idea. If you will excuse me, I think I will go and write some letters.

The Freedmen's Colony of Roanoke Island

A Freedmen's Village near Arlington, VA
A new book,  "Time Full of Trial," by Patricia C. Click, about the Freedmen's Colony on Roanoke Island has shed new light on this important but little known event during the Civil War. The Freedmen's Colony was the result of a Federal/Union victory in the Battle of Roanoke Island. When it was noised abroad inland that the Yankees had taken the island, many slaves came across in boats to find sanctuary. Early in the war it had been decided that runaway slaves could be considered "Contraband" and could be confiscated, sort of like property. Not a concept we can relate to today, but that was the thinking of the times. This deprived the Southerners of slave labor and greatly helped the Federal cause. However, all these escaped slaves posed something of a problem to the Union forces because they were arriving in droves, everyday, with virtually no provisions of their own. In those days, contagion could arise quickly around army camps where sanitation was marginal at best. The army looked around for a solution and hit upon the Abolitionists and Missionary Societies of the North who would be willing to come down and help take care of the black families seeking freedom. These forward thinkers of the North envisioned a new society that might be born here, just as it was born in 1587 with the arrival of Raleigh's Colonists. That is why it was called a "Freedmen's Colony," as opposed to a "Freedmen's Camp." Actually, not many men were involved as most of the able-bodied black men went into service to labor building fortifications or later to serve as soldiers. Which meant it was a society of women, children and old men. But these worked with a will and were educated in a school by the missionaries. It was a grand experiment in a time of otherwise absolute disaster for our country.

Like Hatteras Island (where they voted NOT to secede from the Union), the Roanoke Islanders were not that happy about the war. They continued to trade with the North. They didn't want to be occupied by either side and were upset with the Confederates (who took over at first) for eating up all the food and not allowing them to go fishing. Fishing, hunting, farming (and wrecking) as noted elsewhere on this blog were the principle methods of livelihood back then. The Confederate reasoning was that they would travel south to Hatteras and give away military intelligence. The Outer Banks has always been the unwanted step-child of the State of NC (unless they need tax money) and this war was no exception as the troop strength and preparation was very much below what was needed to secure such an important location. On top of that, with some intelligence information from a local black fisherman, the Yankees decided to land at an unexpected location, Ashby's Harbor (now Skyco) and come behind the rebels by trekking through the marshland. According to the account in "Time Full of Trial," the occupation by Federal Forces was fairly congenial as the Yankees settled in for the duration. One regiment from New York performed plays weekly which were well attended by soldiers and islanders alike. There were also baseball games and other activities. And the Yankees let the Roanoke Islanders go fishing. The Freedman's Colony was set up on vacant land and trees were cut down and planed at a sawmill to make housing. Streets were laid out and gardens planted. The ex-slaves established, early on, a church and school which were later administered by the missionaries. As near as anyone can determine, this colony was where the Dare Co. Airport and the NC Aquarium are now located. Somewhere between Weir Point and Pork Point on the northend and west side of Roanoke Island, extending about a mile toward the interior of the island.

I have been looking over the airport in Manteo wondering if I could see through the mists of time, in hazy light, on dark days, at sunset or during storms, the outlines of those houses of long ago silhouetted against the backdrop of the shining water of the sound. Wondering if I might, in spiritual quietness, slip into a quiet pool in the River of Time where time has stopped flowing by so speedily and experience that era so long ago so that I might know the jubilation of those newly-freed black people, celebrating the joys of laboring on their own land, learning to read for the first time, casting up prayers of hope for a life of freedom should the Yankees win the war. I could sit and listen to an ex-slave preacher, so full of fire and light, expounding the gospel, even though it is illegal for him to preach and has been for 30 years in the state of North Carolina. And listen as all gather in the rough hewn church to lift their voices to sing...I have been wondering how I might connect with these people of long ago... And the answer has come to me resoundingly from the heavens -- Music! And music in that very place they found sanctuary -- Roanoke Island.

In my search for the music they might have sung, I found a video on Youtube about a book the abolitionists compiled of negro spirituals. Songs were written down for the first time in these camps that were set up for the runaway slaves by the abolitionists to demonstrate that blacks were human beings. Kind of a no-brainer for us, but times and attitudes were very different back then. This compilation was the first major collection in musical notation of the negro spirituals that had been sung for years on the plantations. Out of this study came a growing interest in America in this style of music which in turn led to the birth of the blues, jazz, rock and folk music. It is exciting to think that perhaps some of the songs that were written down came from the ex-slaves who might have been on Roanoke Island. In a sense, it would give us on the Outer Banks another first. The first book about African-American music ever written. But whether that is true or not, the Freedmen's Colony on Roanoke Island was an important chapter in the history of our country and should not be forgotten.
A link to the text of the book, "Slave Songs of the United States"
A link to a song like they might have sung on Roanoke Island, "Old Ship of Zion"